La Cuvée Révolutionnaire de Moderato
The First Wine
To inaugurate the site, I wanted to start with something interesting and complex—something that would set the tone and give me the motivation to get writing. I wasn’t disappointed. This is my first encounter with Moderato wines, but their attractive labelling pulled me in. As I was looking for something with a bit of redness, the Merlot/Tannat blend seemed like a good choice—without delving into the full depth of Cabernet Sauvignon. A refreshing option, especially with spring rapidly blitzkrieging us.
The Producer
Moderato is a small producer of non-alcoholic wines (exclusively, it seems), based in Calvados—a surprising origin, given the grape varieties in the bottle! Their website is well worth a visit—full of information about the project and a few blog posts (in French only). They offer a range of proudly French vinifications, processed via cold distillation (and they can probably be entrusted with the job, being from Calvados!). It seems like a very thoughtful and mission-driven operation, and I’m happy to have discovered them.
The Wine
Let’s say that the non-alcoholic wine market has evolved. Many of the first bottles I tried—especially those from long before I gave up drinking—usually fell into two categories: syrup-sweet imitations, packed with sugar just to provide a semblance of structure (obscuring the full-on franken-grape juice), or wines so sharp, they are best broken out during the stubborn household cleaning tasks.
La Cuvée Révolutionnaire is neither.
The winemakers seem to understand that good non-alcoholic wine isn’t just good wine with the alcohol removed. When something is taken away and nothing is put in its place, we quickly sense the absence. Residual sweetness, extra tannin—something body-building and complex—are all necessary to create a fulfilling experience.
The glass in front of me does a pretty good job of showing that. Though not especially intense as I lift it, there’s a jammy roll of summer fruits captured by the glass. But it’s not just juice—this is clearly a fermented product. The aroma is thickened with a transformed essence—something of chocolate, and maybe the merest hint of foot.
And that journey is reexperienced in the mouth. At first, I’m sipping Ribena—but only for a moment. The snap of acidity and depth of tannin quickly transform it from a pure fruit experience into something recognisably wine. It remains heavy in the mouth and lasting on the tongue, giving a moment to ponder.
Honestly, my tastes have changed since I stopped drinking. Without the extra richness from residual sugar, this might not work for me anymore. But for a non-alcoholic wine, it is excellently balanced—the sweetness and tannin well-managed by the added must we see in the ingredients list. (I wonder if I’ve learned the secret!)
Tasting Note
Wine Details
- Region:
- Country: France
- Vintage: unknown
- Grape Variety/Varieties: Merlot/Tannat blend
- Closure: cork
Appearance
- Clarity: Clear
- Intensity: Pale
- Colour: Purple tending to ruby
Nose
- Condition: Clean
- Intensity: Light
- Aroma Characteristics:
- Primary: Red Cherry, blackcurrant
- Secondary: Chocolate, Yeast
- Development: Youthful
Palate
- Sweetness: Off-dry
- Acidity: Medium(+)
- Tannin: Medium
- Body: Medium
- Flavour Intensity: Medium
- Flavour Characteristics:
- Primary: Red cherry, blackcurrant
- Secondary: Candle wax
- Finish: Medium(+)
Conclusion
Additional Notes
- Food Pairing Ideas: Perfect with a powerful cheese board
- Serving Temperature: Room, slightly chilled
- Price Category / Value for Money: 15EUR
- Personal Preference or Rating: 8/10
- Tasted in Fete du vin tasting glass, 21 degrees outside
4/5/2025